French terry and fleece look identical from the outside. Both have a smooth jersey face, and both are used for hoodies, sweatshirts and joggers. The difference is on the inside, and it changes warmth, breathability, pilling, how the garment ages and which customers it suits.
Here is how each fabric is made, how they compare in wear, and how to choose between them for your next hoodie.
What is the difference between French terry and fleece?
Both start as the same kind of knit. On a circular knitting machine, a face yarn forms a plain jersey surface while a second, usually softer and thicker, yarn is laid in behind it in loops. That loop-backed fabric is often called loopback.
- French terry is loopback left as it is. The inside shows rows of small, soft loops.
- Fleece (brushed fleece, or sweatshirt fleece) is loopback that has been brushed, or napped. Wire rollers tease the loops open into a fluffy, raised pile.
So fleece is, in most cases, French terry plus an extra finishing step. That one step is responsible for nearly all the differences below.
Which is warmer: French terry or fleece?
At the same weight, fleece is warmer. Brushing raises the fibres into a lofted layer that traps air close to the body, which is what insulates. French terry’s flat loops trap less air and let more of it move through.
| Property | French terry | Brushed fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Visible small loops | Soft, raised pile |
| Warmth | Moderate | Higher at the same GSM |
| Breathability | Better; air and moisture move more freely | Lower; warmer but can feel stuffy in active use |
| Handfeel | Drier, cleaner, more textured | Plush and cosy |
| Drape | Slightly flatter, often more fluid | Fuller, more lofted |
| Lint and shedding | Low | Higher, especially early washes |
| Pilling risk | Lower | Higher, especially on the inside and with poly blends |
| Seasons | Spring, summer, transitional layering | Autumn and winter |
French terry vs fleece GSM ranges
Both fabrics cover a wide weight range. As a rough guide, with suppliers drawing the lines slightly differently:
- Light (about 220–280 GSM): mostly French terry; layering pieces and warm-weather sweats.
- Mid (about 280–350 GSM): either fabric; the bulk of retail and merch hoodies.
- Heavy (about 350–450 GSM and above): premium and streetwear hoodies; heavy French terry is popular for structured, dry-handed garments, heavy fleece for maximum warmth.
Brushing makes a fabric look and feel thicker without adding weight, so a 320 GSM fleece can feel bulkier than a 320 GSM French terry. When you compare samples, compare GSM, composition and inside finish together. Our tech pack guide covers how to write fabric into a spec so the comparison is like for like.
Pilling and shrinkage: which holds up better?
Pilling happens when loose fibre ends tangle into small balls on the surface. Brushing deliberately frees fibre ends, so fleece is more prone to pilling, mostly on the inside and in high-friction areas such as underarms and cuffs. In polyester-rich blends the pills are anchored by strong fibres and do not break away, so they stay visible. Pilling resistance can be tested and graded, for example with the Martindale method in ISO 12945-2; ask for a result on the bulk fabric rather than relying on the description. Longer-staple, combed yarns and anti-pilling finishes both help, and are worth specifying for premium fleece.
Shrinkage is mainly about fibre and finishing. Cotton-rich loopback shrinks if it is not compacted or pre-shrunk, and heavy terry can shrink noticeably in length. Polyester content reduces shrinkage. Either way:
- Specify a maximum shrinkage after washing in the tech pack, in length and width.
- Wash-test the bulk fabric before cutting, not only the sample yardage.
- If the garment will be garment-dyed or washed, build the expected shrinkage into the pattern.
Cotton, poly blends and recycled options
Composition matters as much as construction.
- 100% cotton feels natural and breathable, takes garment dye and enzyme washes well, and ages with a soft, worn-in look. It shrinks more and, as fleece, can feel denser and heavier.
- Cotton-rich blends (for example, 80/20 cotton/polyester) are the common middle ground for fleece: less shrinkage, better shape retention, quicker drying, and still a cotton face for printing.
- Polyester-rich and 100% polyester fleece is lighter for its warmth, dries fast and keeps colour well, but pills more visibly, holds odour and feels less natural.
- Recycled content. Recycled polyester is widely available in blends, and recycled cotton is used too, though it usually has shorter fibres and is blended with virgin fibre for strength. If you plan to make a recycled claim, you need certified material and documentation through the chain, typically under a scheme such as the Global Recycled Standard. Confirm what certification the fabric actually carries before it goes on a label.
Composition is a fabric decision, which is why it is set at the yarn and fabric stage rather than after the garment is designed.
How do print and embroidery behave on each?
The outside face is jersey in both cases, so most decoration behaves similarly. The differences come from the back and the fibre content:
- Screen print works well on both. On polyester blends, dyes can migrate into light inks during curing, so use low-bleed inks and test on the actual colourway.
- DTG works best on high-cotton fabrics; results on poly-rich fleece are less vibrant and less durable.
- Embroidery is well supported by heavier fabrics of either type. On French terry, the inside loops can catch on the back of the embroidery; a soft backing or cover helps comfort. On thick fleece, the pile can push up through low-density stitching, so digitise with appropriate underlay.
- Heat transfers and pressing can flatten the nap of brushed fleece and leave press marks. Check time, temperature and pressure on a sample.
- Garment dyeing and washes suit cotton French terry particularly well, which is part of why it is popular for vintage-wash ranges.
What drives the cost of each fabric?
Price depends on the specific fabric and quantity and is confirmed with a quote, but the drivers are consistent:
- Weight. More GSM means more yarn per garment.
- Yarn quality. Combed ring-spun cotton costs more than carded or open-end yarn, and finer counts cost more.
- Finishing. Brushing is an extra process on fleece; peaching, anti-pilling or enzyme treatments add further steps.
- Composition and certification. Organic or recycled fibres with chain-of-custody documentation generally add cost.
- Dyeing route. Custom colours need lab dips; garment dyeing adds a step after sewing.
- Mill minimums. Developing a fabric to your spec usually carries a minimum length per colour.
French terry or fleece: which should you choose?
| Use case | Better choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Year-round or warm-climate hoodie | French terry | Breathes better and is comfortable across seasons |
| Winter hoodie, maximum warmth | Fleece | Brushed pile traps more warm air |
| Vintage or garment-dyed range | Cotton French terry | Takes dye and washes well, ages cleanly |
| Lounge and comfort wear | Fleece | Soft, plush inside |
| Athleisure and travel | French terry | Lighter, better moisture movement, less lint |
| Structured streetwear hoodie | Heavy French terry or heavy fleece | Depends on whether you want a dry, crisp handfeel or a cosy one |
| High-volume merch on a budget | Cotton/poly fleece | Warm, stable and familiar to recipients |
If you cannot decide, sample both in the same weight and colour. Wear them, wash them five times and compare the inside, the shape and the print. That tells you more than any spec sheet. Fit decisions sit alongside the fabric; our hoodie tech pack template covers both.
Working with a studio
Choosing between French terry and fleece is usually the start of a fabric brief, not the end. Through fabric development and knitwear development, the weight, composition, inside finish and colour can be set to your product, then proven in sampling with wash and pilling tests before bulk. Minimums, lead times and pricing depend on the fabric and are confirmed with your quote; the estimator is a good place to start.
